Location: England

Distance: Approx. 450 kilometres

Lovers of the Lake District and the Cotswolds may disagree, but Cornwall is arguably England's most scenic region, not least because of its spectacularly rugged coastline, which played a starring role in the hit TV series Poldark.

With public transport sparse, you'll definitely need your own wheels to explore what the late English poet John Betjeman described as "like another country". Despite being part of Great Britain, Cornwall (or 'Kernow') has a distinctly independent spirit.

As you navigate this captivating peninsula, expect to see signs in Cornish (Kernewek) as well as English, and black-and-white Cornish flags fluttering from houses and pubs.


  • Breath-taking coastal walks and lounging on stunning deserted beaches.
  • Savouring freshly-caught Cornish crab, oyster and lobster by picturesque harbours.
  • Sipping pints of Cornish ale in old smugglers' inns.
  • Catching a show at the dramatically-located Minack Theatre.
  • Picnicking in some of Cornwall's entrancing gardens.

Day 1 - Newquay To Port Isaac

Fly into and pick up a hire car from Newquay, which has a lively, surfy vibe and Cornwall's most raucous nightlife. For something a little calmer, head north to the yacht-blessed coastal villages of Padstow and Rock, where celebrity chefs Rick Stein and Nathan Outlaw run some of the country's most esteemed restaurants.

The clifftop trail along the Seven Bays edging Padstow makes for a wonderful post-prandial stroll. Later, scoff Cornish ice cream while getting lost in the steep cobbled streets of another enticing seaside village, Port Isaac.

It's a cosy place to spend the night – plenty of cottage accommodation – and doubles as Portwenn in Doc Martin (the long-running comedy-drama with Martin Clunes).

Day 2 - Port Isaac To Bodmin Moor

After a caffeine hit and a Cornish pasty (try Port Isaac's May Contain Nuts cafe), hit the road to Tintagel Castle. This ruined clifftop fortress is steeped in myths and legends, said to be the birthplace of King Arthur. A new artwork depicting the wizard Merlin has been carved into a rock face close to where Arthur was (apparently) conceived. 

After lunch in Launceston, a historic market town on the Cornwall-Devon border, drive to the bleakly beautiful Bodmin Moor and hike amid its wildflower-strewn heaths and granite outcrops.

One trail leads to Brown Willy, which at 419 metres is Cornwall's highest point. Have a pint with pub grub at Jamaica Inn, the atmospheric setting of Daphne du Maurier's eponymous haunting novel of the same name. You can sleep there as well.

Day 3 - Bodmin Moor To Charlestown

Veer south to Fowey (rhymes with joy), the elegant estuary town where du Maurier lived. Lunch by the water or up at Fowey Hall Hotel, which occupies a handsome old mansion above the town. It's believed to be the inspiration for 'Toad Hall' from The Wind in the Willows (author Kenneth Grahame was a regular guest).

Spend the afternoon roaming the giant geodesic domes and tree-top walkways of the Eden Project, an awe-inspiring eco-friendly attraction that's mushroomed on an abandoned clay pit. Stay in the historic town of St Austell or nearby Charlestown, a quaint harbourside village home to vintage Tall Ships.

Day 4 - Charlestown To Marazion

Drive to the Lost Gardens of Heligan, possibly the most alluring of Cornwall's green spaces. After laying derelict for almost a century, this Victorian-era site has been restored to its former glory; renowned for its rhododendrons, bluebells and quirky sculptures.

Refuel in Truro, the snug Cornish capital, or Falmouth, where the award-winning Maritime Museum Cornwall charts the region's seafaring heritage.

Pit stop in picturesque Portloe for an afternoon tipple, then enjoy dinner and shut-eye in Marazion, a village that, with its palm trees and whitewashed buildings, feels vaguely Mediterranean when the sun's out.

Day 5 - Marazion To St Ives

After breakfast, take the boat – or walk the causeway – to St Michael's Mount, an abbey-capped island where you can explore a fortified castle and soak up jaw-dropping battlement views.

Drive to the pirate-flavoured port of Penzance for lunch, then Land's End for a selfie at mainland Britain's most south-westerly point. Later, head to the Minack Theatre, which, between April and October, showcases Shakespeare and the like.

You should also stroll by the ghostly clifftop mines of Botallack where much of Poldark was shot, before hitting St Ives, where you can souvenir-hunt, browse trendy galleries, feast on seafood and sunbake on glorious beaches.

If you can somehow convince yourself to leave Cornwall, Newquay airport is just under one hour away by car.

Words and photographs: Steve McKenna